I want to thank all of you that has helped me in the past. I hope this will be of use to others.
On the subject of " sharpening gravers ". This is how I sharpen my squares. Let me first say feel free to ask for clarifications and I will try. note 15 o = 15 degrees
1. I buy "Micro 100" solid carbide blanks. Diameter of 1/16" by 12", last time they where about $12. I score them with a diamond wheel to break them 1.5 " long. I cut 3/32" [ .014" wall ] Brass square tube about .800" long. Push the round graver in the square hole [ a dab of super glue if you like ] and you have a inexpensive graver with a end to clamp in and line in up your sharpener and a thin end that is quick to sharpen.
2. How to sharpen a regular drill. If you look at a drill, you have a curved clearance angle behind the cutting edge.
Scribe a line 118 o from the face of the grinding wheel on the tool rest. Press one side of the point on the wheel with the face horizontal, as you swing the chuck end to the left rotate the drill clock wise and you can match a machine grind.
OK what has this got to do with a graver? This is what we try to do when sharpen by hand. To get a curved clearance relief angle to strengthen the point and get the heel out of the way so it does not mark up the cut when we cut curves. All so it gives a curved belly or heel so we can control the depth of cut.
3. I use an "Crocker graver sharpener " to get a curved clearance angle. With a couple modifications.
A. The Gate, two pieces of nickel silver soldered at 90 o. a tab that fits in the clamp that spreads it to allow the graver holder to rotate. The gate with a 90 o open that hits a screw tapped in the graver holder.
B. The Screw, it is tapped at 45 o in the gate, that angle is where the " V " in the clamp part is perpendicular to the diamond wheel. Leave it stick out to let the gate slip under the head of screw. Putting a tube on it will make a wider angle on the bottom of the face of the graver .
C. The Tab that locks the center part at 15 o , so that you can leave the clamp loose and rock the graver down.
4. First grind the 45 o face. Flip the graver 180 o in the holder. Put the graver flat on the wheel, bring it up 15 o , lock the tab on the side. Put the gate in, turn the wheel on. Tip the graver over all the way to the 1st side of the gate, hold the center part up at the 15 o angle. Touch the graver on the wheel letting the center part drop to 0 o .
Repeat on the second side. You will have a straight, fragile V on the bottom of your face.
Now with a light touch, Start with the 15 o and the Screw touching the Gate. Drop the 15 o angle while turning the holder to the center of the Gate. Repeat on the second side. With practice you will get a smooth cutting, long lasting, easy to control graver.
5. The finishing touch was shared by the late Frank Hendricks. Flip the graver back 180 o to the face [45 o ] sharpening position. But make it allmost 90 o off the wheel. Just touch the tip to put on a little flat, it will help keep it from breaking, it will make it bite down into the metal and not skip.
That’s my 2 cents, Mark
Mark Hoechst
8/1/2006 12:34:14 AM
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Hello Mark.
Thank you for that.
Question. Where are you buying Micro 100 carbide in 12" lengths, please.
Glad Frank Hendricks helped you.
He helped so many of us and we miss him.
That man had more engraving information than than ten books.
What a great guy.
Best regards, John
John Barraclough
8/1/2006 12:25:42 PM
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Hello John,
I just checked the two places I have bought 1/16 x 12" in the past. 1st place [mscdirect.com ] has substituted part #48611099 cost $10.69 from a different maker,I have not tried that brand. 2nd place no longer sells it. The manufacture sells it but you have to find a dealer from their list. That is found at micro100.com. If it was easy---any body could do it! Hope that helps. Mark
Mark Hoechst
8/1/2006 3:05:34 PM
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