could someone tell me how to remove the blue on a pistol to be engraved.
thank you all

WILLIAM DIETZ
10/15/2005 12:16:56 AM

William. I use a 4 step method.
1. Place the parts in a bucket of muriatic acid. Bluing is gone in a matter of seconds.
2.Remove parts from acid and place them in a bucket of water containing a fair amount of baking soda. That will neutralize the acid.
3. Place the parts in either another bucket of just plain water, or use a garden hose to rinse the parts.
4. Immediately place the parts in a bucket of 50-50 oil/kerosene mix or any type of water displacement agent.


Brian Powley
10/15/2005 8:38:38 AM

William,

When removing bluing from a gun I use Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover. It is a much milder solution then Muratic Acid or
Naval Jelly. Saturate a small piece of double 0 steel wool and wipe the piece down this will remove the bluing and then rinse with water. This is the safest and easiest way to remove bluing.

Keep us posted.

JJ Roberts



JJ Roberts
10/15/2005 9:47:06 AM

John Doyle
6/19/2006 7:54:21 PM

William, Oxysolv from www.eastwood.com is another really good blue (rust) remover. I also use it for greying areas as it leaves a much more uniform color than does Naval Jelly. It is about $12 + shipping for 16 oz which will last a long time. Regards...

Sam Welch
6/20/2006 6:34:59 PM

HELLO WILLIAM, I USED TO USE THE ACIDS TO REMOVE BLUING, BUT NOW I JUST BEAD BLAST ALL OF THE PARTS WITH 220 GTRIT ALIUMINUM OXIDE AT ABOUT 70 PSI. THEN I SPRAY ALL THE PARTS WITH W-D-40. AFTER BLASTING I POLISH THE PARTS AND PREPARE FOR ENGRAVING. THE REASON I BLAST IS BECAUSE THE PARTS ARE COMPLETLEY CLEANED AND READY FOR BLUING OR PLATING. OFTEN THE ACIDS LEAVE A RESIDUE THAT IS A PAIN TO REMOVE, AND WILL RUST. ALWAYS PLUG BOTH ENDS OF THE BARREL WITH WOODEN DOW ROD OR THE LIKE AS WELL AS THE CHAMBERS ON A CYLINDER OF A REVOLVER. YOU CAN BUY A BLAST CABINET FROM HARBOR FREIGHT OR NORTHERN SUPPLY FOR A COUPLE OF HUNDRED BUCKS, BUT I RECENTLY HAD MY LOCAL SHEET METAL FRIEND TO MAKE ME THE IDEAL CABINET, 48" WIDE BY 18" DEEP AND A QUICK CHANGE TRAP DOOR AT THE BOTTOM THAT ALLOWS QUICK CHANGE OF THE DIFFERENT GRITS. MY FIRST CABINET I MADE OUT OF PLYWOOD MORE THAN 25 YEARS AGO. IT SERVED ME WELL.

GOOD LUCK

ED DELORGE

Edward DeLorge
6/21/2006 9:11:55 AM

From over 35 years of gunsmithing experience I've found that Birchwood Casey or Brownells bluing/rust remover works the best. I haven't tried the stuff from Eastwood but I'm guessing it is similar to these. These are based on Phosporic acid so it removes rust but doesn't rust back. Phosporic acid is what is used in those "paint over rust" primers. It does need to be rinsed well and I usually rinse and then spray with WD40 and blow off the water. Use hot water to rinse as it will evaporate faster. These products are less aggressive on the metal than muratic or blead blasting if the surface is nice to start with. For long guns I use a plastic wallpaper tray to holdthe guns. I have used muratic in the past but the fumes and "rust back" is touchy. A gallon on Brownells remover lasts a long time and is reusable many times.

Rex Pedersen
6/22/2006 6:30:08 AM

I see that Brownells has a Rust and Blue remover and another called Steel White. Is one better than the other? According to their website the Steel White is safer, non-toxic and won't attack softer metals used for inlay? In my experience with chemicals/solvents, etc., safer and non-toxic usually indicates that it does not work as well as the non-safe/toxic version. But I have no experience with removing blueing and rust from firearms so any help is appreciated.

Still a newby but making lots of scrap metal.

Kevin Monahan
6/23/2006 12:11:41 PM

Kevin, while I have not used the Rust and Blue remover, I have used the Steel White. You mix it with distilled water up to 20 to 1 water to Steel White. I have used it to derust small auto sheet metal parts and even used it to derust the water jackets in the old '48 Merc engine in my Model A. It is good stuff. It isn't cheap as I remember tho. Most any of the rust removers will work. I find Steel White and Oxysolv both work well and are easily rinsed after debluing. I mostly use the Oxysolv now.

Sam Welch
6/23/2006 7:58:36 PM

Kevin,
I have a feeling that Oxysolve and the other Brownell product might be the same. The Steel White works but as you said it doesn't work as fast. I like the other better. The Oxysolve may be even better, I don't know. Perhaps someone else has used both products.

Rex Pedersen
6/23/2006 8:34:16 PM

Rex, they may have some of the same chemicals but the Steel White is clear liquid like water while the Oxysolv is thicker tho not quite as thick as Naval Jelly. The Oxysolv works about as fast as the Naval but leaves a more uniform "color". The Steel White is slower, tho I haven't actually tried it at full strength.

Sam Welch
6/23/2006 9:15:54 PM

Sam,
Thanks for the info. I'll have to give this stuff a try when my other is gone. The regular blue and rust remover is "heaver" but not thick. Must be different.

Rex Pedersen
6/24/2006 3:42:09 PM