Eat the baked chips and not the fried chips...
Seriously, you need to demagnetize the tool. I have a large commercial demagnetizer but there as small ones available. Check Ebay or tool supply stores. They make life much better when the chips don't stick.

Rex Pedersen
10/16/2006 7:23:47 PM

On one of the forums someone someone suggested using a electric soldering iron for a demagnatizer. I tried it and it seams to work. I have Craftsman with interchangable tips. Just pass the graver between the leads behind the tip.

Roger


Roger Henrichs
10/16/2006 8:40:43 PM

Thanks guys. I have a soldering gun, I'll give that a try. I just bought a gravermach (got it set up yesterday). What a strange creature. The purr it makes at idle reminds me of my siamese cat :). I'm also trying a 120 for the first time. Been playing with it for about a week. Another strange creature :).

Cody

Cody Tetachuk
10/17/2006 9:47:15 AM

Cody,
If your Gravermach reminds you of your siamese cat you don't have it adjusted right. Go read the instructions again. Sounds like you have the air pressure set too low. You shouldn't get any flutter at idle. You need to have the pressure set just beyond the flutter. Look on GRS's web site under product manuals. There is a how to tune handpiece section.

Rex Pedersen
10/17/2006 4:51:21 PM

Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have the handpiece tuned as per the booklet and it is quite except for a light hiss of air. Then, as per the booklet, I increase the air pressure 2psi and adjust the bias. As soon as the bias valve opens, I get a light flutter or purr from the handpiece and it remains constant until I turn the bias enough to make the handpiece knock, then back it off just until the knock dissappears and the purr is back. I tried to increase the psi even more but all that did was require the bias valve to be opened more. Still has the same flutter???? Seems to work OK but with zero experience perhaps it could be more OK???? I went over the instructions again. not sure what I'm missing????

Cody Tetachuk
10/17/2006 6:35:15 PM

I would say as a beginner that you just leave the bias alone. It's good for certain things but I don't know that you will need to mess with it yet. I may be wrong on that and an e-mail to GRS tech support might be a good idea just in case. I know how the machines work but they know just what questions to ask you.


Rex Pedersen
10/17/2006 6:54:47 PM

I had the same question about the bias when I set up my GraverMach. I asked the sales person at the class and then Tech support and they both suggested not using it as a beginner. It will allow you to tune how fast the unit responds to the pedal. I still have not used it yet. Some of the the experienced folks might be able to tell you when it will help.

Kevin Monahan
10/17/2006 11:18:53 PM

Any watch tool supplier will have demagnetizers. I have a couple made by vigor that I use on watches I overhaul and they are great. Just lay the graver on top, mash the little red button, and presto it's magnetism free in one second.

You can google it or try horological tools, watch tools, etc. Here are a few links.

http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/Compact-Demagnetizer.html

http://www.pmwf.com/Watches/WATCHSALES04/WATCHACCESSORIES4/DemagnetizerSalesTable.htm

All watch tool supplier sites are not created equal. Some have reasonable prices while others are utterly rediculous. You can buy a swiss made demag for less than 40 bucks on one site and go to another and he'll ask 250 for the same thing.

Try eBay first and type in: watch demagnetizer


Tim Wells
10/23/2006 2:20:32 PM

I forgot to add that the reason I use the electronic type rather than the type you have to run your graver through a little tunnel coil, is because there is no guesswork.

When you hit the button you hear a little "pop" and that is the magnetism leaving your tool, watch or whatever and you're done. To be certain it's depleted fully on any other type demag tool you can hold the tool up to a compass and see if it moves the needle. When it's done right the needle won't budge.

Sometimes on those demag tools that have the "tunnel" or hole in it you have to do it a few strokes before it totally demagnetizes the part. I just typed in "demagnetizer" on ebay and pulled up a few, some were for reel to reel , cassette, and vcr tapes and they will also work.

Tim Wells
10/23/2006 2:32:20 PM

Thanks Tim. I used the soldering iron and it seemed to work. Likely 90% of my engraving is on brass so it hasn't been a real issue until I started practicing with the 120 on steel plates. If I do ever start to work in steel, I'll certainly look for an actual demagnitizer as you suggest.

Thanks
Cody

Cody Tetachuk
10/23/2006 7:05:46 PM

radio shack has inexpensive ones for small tool tips.

j.d. swartzfeger
12/28/2006 6:55:34 PM

To J.D.Swartzfeger.
I see your post about a demag from Radio Shack.
But a little off topic and a question, if I may.
Are you the Monk Swartzfeger who was featured in the book "American Engravers" by Roger Bleile ?
Are you still engraving?
Best wishes to you, happy New Year.
John.

John Barraclough
12/29/2006 9:58:28 AM

to john baraclough: yes john, i was the "monk" in C. roger bleiles' book.
i am retired from the 9-5, but am still engraving. good luck to you.

j.d. swartzfeger
2/10/2007 3:08:29 PM

JD.
Thank you for your answer.
it's been a lot of years since that book was published.
Good to hear that you are still enjoying engraving.
Best wishes to you.
John.

John Barraclough
2/10/2007 10:57:56 PM

I have just joined FEGA and received the Issue 76 of the Engraver.

I was wondering what type of steel you would start with to make and engrave such heads?

Any advice is most appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Steve


Steve




Steven Landers
1/5/2008 12:06:22 PM